Q: What happens to a Cobra (or Matador) when it dies?
A: It turns into a delicious burger!!!!

Like a grilled gift from God, the second location of the fifth taste has opened in Los Feliz. Umami Burger, the Asian-inspired burger joint of pandemonium-inducing flavors, has taken up residence in the former Cobras & Matadors space on Hollywood Blvd. Looking to get carnivorous in their cavernous new digs (compared to the lil' space on La Brea), LA.com popped in for a bite on day four of the new operation.

The feel and flavor of Umami's Port & Stilton burger so defies accurate description that one can only assume it's made of ground unicorn. Not wanting our juicy and fantastical feast to be lonely, we ordered an architectural side of Lincoln Log-esque, triple cooked, hand cut fries and two spoonfuls of housemade ketchup. Historically this ensemble has been completed with an electric orange Crush, but the Nakhon Japanese Lager came a-knocking and who are we to turn down a $3.50 beer.

Still hungry? We weren't either but the lure of dessert has never stopped an ambitious Jew. Embodying the Tastykake spirit, Cake Monkey's Peanut Butter and Marshmallow Mini was served warm and gooey like a perfect stumpy s'more. We asked the amenable and enthusiastic waiter to cut
the goods in half, which was helpful given the melty ooze factor. Possibly he would have cut it in half anyway. Maybe it always comes cut in half. We'll order 15 more and let you know.


Opting out of the caffeinated LaMill closer, we chose instead to end the calorie marathon with coffee ice cream. Milk's indulgent and excellent Coffee Toffee Sandwich (also cut in half) came thick-pressed between two giant Nilla-looking, sticky and sweet almond cookies.

New Umami's menu includes all of the original offerings plus the addition of 'Kombu' meals -- numbered combos that feature a specific burger, side dish and beverage (no substitutions).

As well, the charming selection of glass-bottled sodas have followed the venue east, but they've also brought along their alcoholic cousins. Salaryman, the adjoining Japanese-themed bar, services the restaurant with selections of beer and wine.

Sparsely decorated and dimly lit, the large room (seats approximately 100 souls) is still an echoing noise hazard, but the cheaply priced beer and fine food more than distracts from the decibels.

Happy Hour specials, Midnight Snack deals and Signature Cocktails coming soon.



Zbutton
Umami Burger / Salaryman Bar
4655 Hollywood Blvd
Los Feliz, CA 90027
(323) 669-3922

MAP