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Chef John Rivera Sedlar makes his triumphant return to the Los Angeles food scene after several years away with his new restaurant, Rivera, across from the Staples Center.
The über-hip space is already buzzing with action, so we'll forgive the megalomaniacal implications of the décor, which features the letter “R” practically everywhere you look from the outdoor grillwork to the “tequila tasting chairs” in the bar.
Sedlar's playful menu is all about the small plates to whet your appetite, like the host of prólogos, or snacks.
Start with the tortillas florales, which are herb-infused and perfect for scooping dollops of the light guacamole. The xnipek (pronounced shnee-peck) is a smoky “dog's snout” salsa that comes with mini chip triangles. It's called that because it's supposed to be spicy enough to make a dog's nose run. Woof!
Next there are the varios, or starters. Sharing a few of these small dishes is the way to go.
The Basque lamb chops with a chorizo and caper relish was just the right balance of refinement and gaminess, while the seared black cod with Serrano ham crisp had a luxuriant, rich texture.
Chef Sedlar is big into tamales, a specialty from his native New Mexico, so he often features them in his nightly specials.
If you're still peckish, order one of the big plates, like the succulent banana leaf-braised pork shoulder cooked that is cooked sous vide, and comes with multi-colored Peruvian potatoes.
For dessert, the crema catalana, a sort of crème brulée with whipped cream and almonds on top, is a standout, and goes perfectly with one of the myriad glasses of sherry or port choices on the menu.
The variety of specialty tequilas and cocktails, as well as the Spanish-world-centric wine list are also full of great, reasonable options.
-- Eric RosenRIVERA
Address: 1050 S. Flower St., #102
Cross Street: Olympic Blvd.
Neighborhood: Downtown
Phone: (213) 749-1460
Hours: Mon-Fri 11:30am-2pm, Mon-Sat 5:30-10:30pm, Sun 5:30-10pm
Type: Mexican, Fusion, Small Plates
