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Avocado and tomato salad with watercress and pepitas

Simon LA

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Address: 8555 Beverly Blvd.
Cross Street: La Cienega Dr.
Neighborhood: Beverly Hills
Phone: (310) 358-3979
Hours: Daily, 6:30AM-10PM;
Brunch, Sat., 11AM-4PM
Type: California Cuisine

Culinary celebrity Kerry Simon launched his eponymous restaurant at the Sofitel three years ago after stints at New York's Plaza Hotel, Blue Star, with Jean Georges Vongerichten, and finally at his own restaurants, Mercer Kitchen in New York and Prime in Las Vegas. Like his other restaurants, Simon LA is dedicated to using organic, sustainable ingredients in simple but interesting combinations.

The large restaurant manages to feel cozy and clandestine, with screened-off booths, low mood lighting, and an atmosphere that, while not hushed, is not hectic either. Since the season for seasonal menus is upon us, we checked out Simon LA's summer menu, created by new chef de cuisine Marius Blin.

Though Blin is still finding his path in the kitchen, most of what we tried was delicious. Standout dishes included the tuna dynamite appetizer with lump crab and red chili aioli; a skillet of roasted young beets with goat cheese; and the mouthwatering roasted loin of milk-fed veal entree with creamed chard tortelloni and sweet braised veal cheeks. The black cod with kumquat sambal, cashews and cilantro rice was lighter, but still flavorful.

Highlighting the best veggies of the moment were the avocado and tomato salad with watercress and pepitas ironically doused with green goddess dressing, and the roasted morel mushrooms with caramelized cipollinin onions and a St. André triple cream crumble.

Candy junkies will appreciate the signature huge pink cotton candy balls for dessert, while gourmands should try the velvety chocolate mousse cake with caramelized hazelnuts and crème anglaise.

After dinner, pop down the hallway to the Stone Rose Lounge or out on the huge front firepit-lit patio for a delicious specialty cocktails, like the Blueberry Crumble with Stoli Blueberry, Frangelico, pineapple juice, cream and a graham cracker rim; or the sweet Old Fashioned with hand-muddled cherry, bitters, sugar and a mint sprig.