La Cachette Bistro

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Address: 1733 Ocean Ave.
Cross Street: Pico Blvd.
Neighborhood: Santa Monica
Phone: (310) 434-9509
Hours: Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm;
Sat-Sun 11:00am-3:00pm;
Sun-Thurs 6:00-10:00pm;
Fri-Sat 6:00-11:00pm
Type: French
Chef Jean-Francois Meteigner seems to have unleashed his playful, whimsical side with the opening of his new bistro in Santa Monica. Whereas the old La Cachette in Century City was a traditional French restaurant of white table cloths, hushed tones, and geriatric patronage, the new bistro is all about youth and energy, with an extensive menu of classical dishes transformed into modern arrangements.

Start with the rich fish and langoustine soup served with a rouille (saffron aioli) and Swiss cheese crostini, then treat yourself to the velvety homemade terrine of foie gras with rhubarb paste and toasted brioche that goes perfectly with an Alsatian gewurtztraminer.

Now that your palate is primed, choose from the short "raw menu," and prepare for the explosion of flavors in the Japanese yellowtail sashimi dressed with candied ginger and black olive bits, alongside an avocado and tomato "tower" topped with gorgeous slices of black garlic and drizzled with a tangy wasabi emulsion. For a final touch of seafood, the "eco" mussels with a teasingly light white wine-saffron broth are available in both appetizer and entrée sizes.

The most unusual dish on the menu is the Smoked Alaskan true cod with house made organic salmon sausages served on a bed of sauerkraut with fennel-lemon sauce. The buffalo short ribs with a coffee rub and a cheesy potato gratin lightens a heavy dish by taking advantage of a leaner meat and a dense, dark mocha flavor that somehow avoids weighing down the appetite.

Dessert is appropriately decadent here, with choices like the dark chocolate mousse with almond tuile, the Tahitian vanilla-raspberry crème brulée with a raw sugar crust, and a rhubarb-strawberry tart with a crumbled crust and ice cream that provides a last, fleeting taste of summer fruit.

Though there are some fanciful specialty cocktails, stick to the impressive, mostly French wine list, with some truly interesting entries like a biodynamic 2005 Domaine Gauby Grenache from Roussillon.