Oliverio tortelli
Oliverio's tortelli, plated (Eric Rosen)
Along with a redecoration job that has transformed the Avalon Beverly Hills Hotel's poolside restaurant into a swinging homage to early '60's Italian Riviera chic, comes a new menu at Oliverio -- courtesy of new chef, Mirko Paderno (most recently of Cecconi's West Hollywood).

His Italian-inspired menu is both familiar and whimsical with such dishes as a salad with spicy wild arugula, lemon, olive oil and octopus carpaccio that comes so thinly sliced
Oliverio veal
Oliverio's veal, extra lemon wedge (Eric Rosen)
it is translucent. Just above it on the menu, you'll find a spicy tuna tartar over saffron-flavored rice cake with shallots, honoring the Asian influences on Italian cuisine, while the cauliflower soufflé comes out more like a firm panna cotta with a parmigiano sauce rich enough to make any stubborn kid eat it.

The generous pizzettas with spongy potato-based crusts are a must -- either as a shared appetizer or an individual entrée -- especially the earthy black summer truffle one with goat cheese.

Pastas come prepared perfectly al dente, as in the case of the huge tortelli stuffed full of braised lamb and cuddled with tomatoes and mild black olives. Believe it or not, we haven't even gotten to the entrée portion of the menu, with choices like an enormous bone-in breaded veal chop with parsley and lemon garnish over a side of crisp roasted potatoes.

Even with pairings from the delightful (and easily digestible one-page) Italian-focused wine menu, you should save room for desserts like a seasonal semifreddo with spiced cranberries and pistachios, or the creamy lemon budino with bruléed lemon cream, or a crunchy zabaglione chocolate torte with caramel sauce.

Address: 9400 Olympic Blvd.
Cross Street: Canon Dr.
Neighborhood: Beverly Hills
Phone: (310) 407-7791
Hours: Mon-Sat 7:00am-midnight, Sun 7:00am-11:00pm
Type: Italian
Price: $$