Though he has a chain of high-end eateries in Japan, restaurateur Yasumasa Kawabata gains his first U.S. foothold with Agura, the latest addition to La Cienega's restaurant row, and he is clearly looking to make an impression. Agura is housed in a former church, with exposed wooden ceilings, a jaw-dropping crystal chandelier, a huge Buddha statue, tufted leather high-back chairs, golden gilt accents, Japanese masks adorning the patio walls, and three screened-off private dining rooms where shoes must come off.

Like the décor, the menu is eclectic, with a mix of Japanese and continental influences. There is an entire sushi menu, and many of the cuts are served with a unique flair, like the pearly red snapper wrapped around crunchy sprouts and garnished with paper-thin lemon slices and of yuzu pepper jelly. Fancier rolls include the Agura platter with five different fish wrapped in cucumber, two kinds of spicy mayonnaise, red and green seaweed, and a garnish of flying fish roe.

On the hot menu, there is a much-touted collagen terrine made from pork gelée and dressed with balsamic and lemon sauce; and foie gras sautéed with daikon on a creamy miso-sesame sauce. The deep-fried lobster tail entrée with crispy rice noodles and gin-infused mayo has been getting a lot of press, though the pan-fried sea bass with butter rice in a Madeira wine sauce is both fluffy and meaty. The other specialty is the curried Colorado lamb chop with black pepper sauce and couscous.

Some of the most interesting flavors come from the drinks menu though, in cocktails like a Manhattan made with plum wine, a shiso-cucumber mojito, and a strawberry balsamic martini. There's also a large sake list that runs the gamut from a smooth Masumi to a complexly floral Tamagawa.

Agura
Address: 514 N. La Cienega Blvd.
Cross Street: Rosewood Ave.
Neighborhood: West Hollywood
Phone: (323) 289-1940
Hours: Daily 6:00pm-Midnight
Type: Japanese, Continental
Price: $$$