Health reports abound on the benefits and problems of eating fish. Americans seem to have sorted through it all, and the consumption of fish is up in this country - an increase of 11 percent per capita in the last five years - from 14.8 pounds per person in 2001 to 16.5 pounds last year. Shrimp (4.4 pounds), canned tuna (2.90 pounds) and salmon (2.026 pounds), the three most consumed species, made up more than 56 percent of the seafood Americans ate in 2006.

The rise can be attributed to the health benefits from omega-3 fatty acids found in fish, says Jennifer Wilmes, a registered dietitian at the National Fisheries Institute, adding that they are essential - and the body can't make them. "They are good for heart, brain and eye health." In a Harvard School of Public Health study released last year, eating fish twice a week was shown to reduced the risk of dying of a heart attack by 36 percent.

Trendy at Los Angeles area restaurants are lots of raw preparations (including crudos and sashimi) along with combinations of fin fish and shellfish together, says David LeFevre, executive chef at Los Angeles' Water Grill, the top seafood restaurant in the area according to the Zagat Guide.

At McCormick & Schmick's in Burbank, executive chef Ray Hayes came up with a raw bar that has become very popular.

Another trend, says Wilmes, is that "with the exception of tuna, we are finding the most popular consumed fish are being sourced more and more from aquaculture or fish farms - some 40 percent of what Americans consume."

There are different opinions about farm-raised vs. wild.

"We always have wild fish and some aquaculture fish on the menu, depending on the season," says Water Grill's LeFevre. "Aquaculture or farm-raised fish is a touchy subject. You really have to do your research."

Farming allays concerns about overfishing some varieties, but some farmed fish are treated with antibiotics or color enhancers, and their flavor may be affected by diet. Consumers need to ask questions on the source of farm-raised fish.

"Most important for the restaurant is really great sourcing," adds LeFevre. "The more relationships you can build with actual fisherman/growers, the better product you can get.

"We offer more than 30 different types of fresh fish and shellfish on the menu from all over the world - Japan, Europe, Australia, South America. I try to offer as many techniques on cooking fish (on the menu) as possible to highlight the culinary skill of our crew. Some fish is grilled, poached, steamed, fried ... some of it is raw, barely cooked, warmed through.

"The three most popular menu offerings are lobster out of the shell, served with artichoke barigoule (artichokes braised with Pernod, white wine and rosemary); barramundi (white flaky fish) from Australia served with Israeli couscous, tomato-date chutney and Castel Vetrano olives; and olive-oil-poached King salmon with chopped soba noodles," says LeFevre, adding that crab cakes and chowder are other favorites.

LeFevre's cooking philosophy boils down to this: make it simple. Cook great quality seafood products properly. "We use fish the same day it's delivered."

"The biggest mistake people make with seafood is that if they see it on ice, they think it has to be fresh, which isn't necessarily the case," says McCormick & Schmick's Hayes. "I reject fish if the eyes are not clear, and it is slippery. Fresh fish should have almost no odor at all - it should smell like an ocean breeze."

Hayes buys seafood for the restaurant from 60 to 70 ports of call around world - and you'll find 30 to 40 species, including shellfish, on the changing daily menu, some 20 percent to 30 percent of it driven by what's available and his creativity, not corporate directives.

When buying, Hayes specifies "last day caught" (unless from a day boat fisherman) to avoid ending up with fish that has been on a boat five to seven days before returning to port.

At the restaurant, Hayes follows a 36-hour rule, serving the seafood within 36 hours of its arrival, (apropos for home cooks, too). Most often, though, the seafood is served the same day within hours of being delivered. After 36 hours, seafood should be frozen.

Some people avoid cooking fish at home because they always end up with a fishy odor throughout the house. "The smell is from overcooking the fish (the oil comes out of the fish and then burns), or the fish could be over the hill," Hayes says.

>Consumers should aim to eat a total of 12 ounces of seafood weekly.

>Buy well-refrigerated, properly iced fish and seafood from a reputable source. It should have only a slight sea-breeze odor and not be slimy or dry. When buying whole fish, look for clear (not cloudy), bright eyes, glistening skin and firm flesh.

>Refrigerate seafood immediately after purchasing. Store in the coldest part of the refrigerator. Keep raw and cooked seafood separate.

>To avoid cross contamination, do not use the same utensils or cutting boards with both raw and cooked seafood.

>Thaw frozen fish in refrigerator, not at room temperature.

>Most fish is best cooked quickly with high heat. Bake, broil, grill, microwave, poach, saute, steam, stir-fry or deep-fry.

>To cook, measure fish at its thickest part. Allow about 10 minutes total cooking time per inch of thickness.

>Cook fish to an internal temperature of 145 degrees F - the fish should flake easily with a fork.

>If marinating fish, do it under refrigeration. Discard marinade; never reuse.

>Store shellfish such as oysters, clams and mussels in the refrigerator in open containers with clean, damp cloths placed on top of the shellfish. Discard any that die during storage. Cook within one to two days of purchasing.

>Live lobsters and crabs should be cooked the same day purchased.

>Frozen fish and shellfish are best used within three to six months.

>While some consumers are skeptical about mercury in fish, it is a naturally occurring substance that accumulates in fish over a lifetime. Swordfish, shark, king mackerel and tile fish are the four fish with the highest mercury levels, notes dietitian Jennifer Wilmes. Pregnant women are advised to avoid them. >N.H.

"FRESH FISH SHOULD HAVE ALMOST NO ODOR AT ALL - IT SHOULD SMELL LIKE AN OCEAN BREEZE."
- RAY HAYES, EXECUTIVE CHEF AT MCCORMICK & SCHMICK'S IN BURBANK, SEEN HERE HOLDING A 15-POUND ATLANTIC SALMON.

PHOTO BY JOHN McCOY>LA.COM

Natalie Haughton, (818) 713-3692; natalie.haughton@dailynews.com