There's a reason for Campanile's 18-year-long success - besides chef-owner Mark Peel's wonderful, fresh creations.

The restaurant staff knows how to treat customers - even those who aren't regulars and drop in for a bite. As we glanced around the room, it was obvious diners were enjoying a leisurely evening - mostly with grilled cheese selections (Thursday is grilled cheese night), although the regular menu is offered, too.

The grilled mussels with thyme and rouille (traditionally a sauce of garlic, chiles, bread crumbs and olive oil) ($9) and lots of braised artichokes with bagna cauda (a sauce usually made with olive oil, butter, garlic and anchovies) ($8) were delicious starters.

The sandwich lineup includes cheese and non-cheese choices that are several cuts above the usual comfort food we grew up on. After all, this is a fashionable dining venue. The classic grilled cheese ($14) comes plain, but to bump it up a notch we opted for ordering it with marinated onions and whole grain mustard ($15) - and it was great. Slices of wonderful La Brea Bakery bread (with grill marks) were filled with gooey, melted top-quality cheese. It was yummy. A fresh burrata open-face sandwich ($16) was picture-pretty, upscale and fabulous topped with fresh chick peas, roasted cherry tomatoes and crisp garlic. Both sandwiches came plated with the freshest-tasting baby spring greens tossed perfectly - with just a light touch of dressing. Among other sandwich choices were Croque Monsieur (ham, gruyere, wild mushrooms and mornay sauce), braised lamb, piquillo peppers, arugula, salsa verde and marinated goat cheese, a Reuben and an Autostrada with prices maxing out at $18 each.

And then there was the plate piled high with french fries for two to share that were totally amazing (included in the sandwich price). They were piping hot and so good we couldn't stop eating them. Too bad all fries don't live up to these standards.

Don't skip dessert: From seven choices ($12 each), we selected the peach pie to share. Presented in the round, not a slice, with delicious, tender pastry crust surrounding lots of juicy fresh peaches, it was topped with caramel sauce and an awesome-tasting scoop of ice cream swirled with a huge peach piece, made on the premises. It was an ideal finale.

At its best: Exemplifies what a successful Los Angeles restaurant is all about - top-quality, interesting ingredient combinations, created and served by a competent, welcoming and attentive staff. Grilled Cheese Night is a bargain.

Could be better: A little faster pacing of the meal.

Natalie Haughton, (818) 713-3692; natalie.haughton@dailynews.com

RESTAURANT

Rating: 3 1/2 stars
Details: 624 S. La Brea Ave. Open for lunch Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; for brunch Saturday and Sunday 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.; open for dinner Monday through Wednesday, 6 to 10 p.m., Thursday through Saturday 5:30 to 11 p.m. Closed for dinner Sunday. (323) 938-1447. www.campanilerestaurant.com.
Cost: Appetizers $7 to $16, sandwiches $14 to $18 (one with 25.4 ounces of beer, $26), entrees $21 to $48, sides $8, desserts $12.
Noteworthy: Restaurant specializes in California-Mediterranean fare. Farm-fresh ingredients are a hallmark of Mark Peel's cuisine. Dine in three different spaces - the front room, adjacent to the bar, is most casual; middle room has partial view of kitchen and chefs; back room has a more formal feel. Valet parking.