This dynamite barbecue joint is tucked away in the tiny foothill town of Montrose, just north of Glendale. It's not a dirty, down-home kind of place; it's actually rather bright, clean and, well, suburban. Teens seem to run the floor, and families fill the tables.

Zeke's is worth seeking out if you crave delectable smoked meats, tangy sauces and homemade side dishes like creamy coleslaw and baked beans with chunks of savory pork. The meats—giant slabs of babyback ribs, heaps of pulled pork or moist brisket—are rubbed, smoked and served "dry" so you can sauce it up with the homemade Texas-, Carolina- or Kansas City-style barbecue sauce that's out on every table. If barbecue isn't your thing (is that possible?), the meatloaf and mashed potatoes, or even the grilled salmon salad will please. Whatever you order, don't miss out on the sweet potato fries. Zeke's has a second outpost in the Target Center on Santa Monica Boulevard and La Brea Avenue.