Stowed away in the basement of Downtown's glamorously decadent Millennium Biltmore hotel lies this sparse, out-of-place and splendid Japanese restaurant.

The crisp, clean environment—slightly jarring after swimming through the Rococo gilt above—fills with a pleasant humming mixture of Asian businessmen, Midwestern families staying at the hotel, and Industryites downtown for dinner, sake and a show at the Disney Hall (or just dinner, sake and more sake). Born in Peru, original chef Ricardo Zarate came to LA via London; his worldliness has led to a sushi/small-plates Japanese menu inclined toward imaginative combinations. Highlights include pan-fried oysters with jalapeno, shishito peppers with tomato salsa and lemon dressing, and the ceviche with orange ponzu coriander juice and yuzu dressing. The presentation is also fun: One dish came on a platter made of ice. —Lonny Pugh