This Asian cafe shines from the historic Helms Bakery complex in Culver City, beneath the Beacon Laundry sign. Ah, yes, that's how they got the name.

Like many of the tenants in this recently refurbished locale, the space is tres modern, with high windows, higher ceilings and a wooden-bench banquette against gray concrete walls. Even with that lack of sound absorption, the room still has an all-around Zen vibe; two patios have a much lower noise level. The menu mixes small plates and entrees, that now-typical tactic that's a boon for those of us who can never decide what to get. Sashimi sits alongside a soy-glazed burger without the selections becoming to varied or overwhelming; chef Kazuto Matsusaka (Chinois on Main, Zenzero, Barfly) proves that focus in fusion cuisine is the only way to make it work. Some highlights include crispy oysters in lettuce cups, chicken wings with a soy-ginger glaze, and miso-marinated black cod with sesame green beans. Desserts arrive in interesting combinations, too, like a Rice Krispies sundae or green tea and white chocolate cheesecake—but the bento box of sweets for two offers a treat for those whose indecision knows no bounds. —Lesley Balla