After making a splash with Meson G, Tim and Liza Goodell jumped right into opening this swank steakhouse in the historic Roosevelt Hotel.

Dodd Mitchell, who designed the latest multimillion-dollar renovations for the entire hotel, created for Dakota a sophisticated, earthy room incorporating his signature elements of stone, leather and light. Chocolate-brown banquettes and booths fill the large, almost gothic room; strips of leather cover the tables and create curtains between the restaurant and the hotel lobby. Considering the parade of celebs and scenesters checking out the hotel's Tropicana, Dakota has the potential to become more about its scene than its food. But don't stay away because of that. Executive chef Michael McDonald aims to execute the owners' vision: traditional steakhouse fare with modern Hollywood flair. Steaks, seafood and sides are all offered a la carte, and two of the best are the seared halibut with brown-butter caper sauce and the bone-in filet, with one of the best bearnaise sauces we've had in years. Add some braised morel mushrooms and a miniature cast-iron pot of creamy cauliflower gratin to instantly feel like a Hollywood fat cat.