In this town, there are restaurant openings, and then there are restaurant openings. Foodies could barely contain themselves about the debut of this seafood spot, which has become one of the best dining experiences in LA.

Nervous chatter began when Michael Cimarusti left his post as chef at Water Grill in 2004—where could he be going? But it wasn't long before he took over Patina's original Melrose Avenue location along with co-owner Donato Poto, the former maitre d' at Bastide. The new palate of earthy colors creates a warmer, more relaxed space that's intensified by ceramic orbs cascading down the walls and filling corners like barnacles on the legs of an ocean pier; new light fixtures resemble fish scales. This undersea mirage may sound like The Little Mermaid gone horribly wrong, but it's actually subtle, congruous and extremely chic. Even the clientele has loosened up: Now diners are dressed casually and ready to chat. Cimarusti uses the freshest seafood available, be it something as unique as Japanese ayu (sweetfish) or as ubiquitous as Maine lobster; lunchtime options include crab cakes and a New England "chowda." Natural flavors and textures are simply enhanced with seasonal herbs, sauces and vegetables. For those averse to seafood, dishes like foie gras with figs and aged vinegar, or air-chilled muscovy duck, do more than suffice. —Lesley Balla