This dark but shiny spot, covered in black and white tile, isn't just the kind of hip New
York-ish spot where a mysterious old man in a full-on kilt getup might sit down at the next table. It's the kind of hip New York-ish spot where, when it happens, no one bats an eye.

First-time restauranteur George Abou-Daoud makes it all look rather simple. The compact but stylish space—with a dominant bar, tin ceiling and chalkboard listing the dishes on offer—is complemented by a compact but charming menu. Our chicken-breast French dip was crispy and wholesome, the Bowery burger arrived with herb butter on an English muffin, and the cheesecake was creamy and unfussy. In addition to the well-stocked full bar, a sturdy but unpretentious wine list supplements beers like Chimay and, um, PBR in a can. Upon opening, the vibe quickly became low-key but lively: When we recently stopped by on a late Wednesday evening, the bar was full and we scored the last of just a few tables in front. Foot traffic from Amoeba and the ArcLight helps the diverse, New York feel of the place: We didn't overhear the dreaded "A" words (agent, arc, audition) once. —Lonny Pugh