With a glamorous space and exquisite fare to match, Ortolan soars thanks to co-owner Jeri Ryan and former L'Orangerie chef Christophe Eme. Why Ortolan? It's a tiny bird—an outlawed delicacy—savored by French gourmands. Thankfully, there is nothing illegal about this nest.

The main room is as decadent as the French fare served, with long velvet curtains, crystal chandeliers and creamy leather booths and banquettes. Fresh potted herbs creep up the walls of the dark, romantic bar; couples canoodle next to a crackling fire in the back lounge. Eme's dishes almost always please, though they can initially seem more like conceptual vanity projects than gastronomical gifts: After lovely French bread is nibbled, an amuse bouche arrives...in test tubes. The layers of mushroom cream and milk emulsion are visually stunning and palate-pleasing, but do you sip it or shoot it? Shot glasses and white plastic blocks often make appearances throughout the meal, holding delicate minestrone soup or a duo of mini pineapple-sorbet cones. Some of the most inspiring creations are the John Dory, served on a hot river stone, and the crispy langoustines (aka prawns), with basil, chickpeas and a shot of minestrone. Save room to pass judgment on the pastry chef, whose light, tangy lemon cheesecake layered between puff pastry is almost as good as his melting chocolate cake with an orgasmic praline mille-feuille. —Lesley Balla