This Hollywood seafood bistro is a worthwhile destination in the maze of Sunset + Vine.

David Lentz—the former chef of Opaline and husband to A.O.C.'s Suzanne Goin—has redefined minimalism. This cat is all brown and white, with cement floors, exposed air ducts, stark (hard!) furniture and a small bar. With so little sound absorption, the cacophany of blowing air, chatty diners and eclectic music overwhelms the small space. But somehow it all seems appropriate for this unfussy bistro, a slick Hollywood version of an East Coast seafood shack. The incredibly selective (some might say limited) menu features just 15 or so seafood dishes like like freshly shucked oysters to start, or tuna sashimi with melon salad and spicy aioli. Other highlights include Cambridge style crab soup, a lobster roll to please any discerning East Coaster, and a burger with bacon, avocado and blue cheese. The adventurous drink and wine list offers only obscure labels and hard-to-find wines, so don't hiss if you can't find your favorite. —Lesley Balla