A flashy churrascaria brings Brazilian hospitality and delectable grilled meats to La Cienega's restaurant row. Cue watering of mouth.

Those who'd decry an all-you-can eat restaurant (with a salad bar!) as too chintzy for Beverly Hills underestimate just how much the smell of grilled meat affects people. Especially rich people. There are other Brazilian steakhouses in LA, but Fogo de Chao, part of an international chain, is the one drawing the unabashed—and loaded—protein lovers. The dining room is an endless sea of linen-topped tables, colorful cowboy murals and busy Brazilian cowboys in gaucho getups offering continuous service. After loading up on fresh greens, veggies and antipasto treats at the salad bar, diners receive baskets of hot, addictive cheese rolls back at the table. In order to get the bustling gauchos to stop with the spits of meat, use the paper disk next to your plate: Red means "back off," but green means "bring it." Enter knife-wielding men ready to serve slabs of medium-rare filet mignon, tender baby lamb chops, mini sausages, chicken and bacon-wrapped steak. Sides like crispy polenta fries, plantains and garlic mashed potatoes appear just in the nick of time. After all this, another server comes over to talk about desserts, but who has room? —Lesley Balla