Old Hollywood casts a spell on Sunset Strip at this stylish, classic boite and bistro in the landmark originally and once again known as the Sunset Tower Hotel.

To the left of the lobby is an elegant dining room slinking around mellow musicians, pale wood columns and a clinking bar. Through the windows: a romantic view unique to the best establishments of the Sunset Strip hillside. On the walls: Black-and-white photos of the golden-era privileged few. (Look closely: The pictures are defaced.) And at the intimate tables: May-December couples, younger privileged lovebirds, refined but rowdy co-workers, celebrities and hip website editors (ahem). After several false restarts in the wake of the former Argyle Hotel's extensive renovations, the restaurant has brought in former Jer-ne Restaurant + Bar chef Dakota Weiss, who shines with a French and Italian-focused menu. Grilled king salmon is accompanied by jumbo asparagus and extra virgin olive oil; braised veal cheeks arrive with oxtail and Swiss chard ravioli, Meyer lemons and white truffle-mache salad. To fully enjoy Weiss' skills is to truly submit to a long, multi-course evening on a special occasion. Translation: Those who are saving up for something special aren't likely to be disappointed. —Lonny Pugh