When longtime friends Mario Batali and Nancy Silverton come together for a chi-chi pizza place, foodies can be counted on to flock. Translation: Getting a table ain't easy.

The opening of this restaurant—long rumored, then suddenly, there it was—was rife with mythical elements. Batali is, of course, a nationally revered conquistador in cargo shorts; Silverton is the queen of the La Brea Bakery castle. And did you hear about the $700 of meats, cured by Batali's father, that were stolen just before opening? Now that the doors have opened, with the adjacent Osteria Mozza coming soon, we're past all the whisperings and hearsay. Our recent meal at the lively, highbrow pizzeria, filled with food-world types who all seem to know each other, began with fried squash blossoms, stuffed with ricotta, and the "Affetati misti," a crisply presented charcuterie plate. Pizzas come topped with burrata, squash blossoms and tomato, or lardo, rosemary and extra-virgin olive oil. The crusts are not deflated with ten pounds of cheese; the offerings are large but light. Paninis and daily specials are available, and rare is the table not enjoying the wine list. Even at lunch. —Lonny Pugh