Set behind a quaint, white-lit courtyard in a historic former schoolhouse, Memphis brings the Deep South to Hollywood Boulevard.

Gutted within the limits of reason (and preservation codes) by high-profile owners Michael Sutton (The Lodge), Richard Heyman (Chapter 8), Gonzalo Nieto (Mood) and Gordon Bijelonic (Citizen Smith), Memphis retains a homey feel despite its way-Hollywood pedigree. (And way-Hollywood neighbors: The courtyard also houses a late-night Mexican-food spot from Element's James Sinclair, Bella's J.T. Torregiani and Adolfo Suaya, who co-owns The Lodge with Sutton.) Through the creaky front door is a lounge area, across from the foot of a staircase leading to two private rooms and the intimate main dining area. Designer Grady Cooley swathed it all in deep crimsons and gently battling floral prints. Chef Francisco Chaidez's menu is less Deep South than upscale California cuisine inspired by the South: The gumbo is light enough to try as a starter, the catfish is reasonably portioned, and the prawns are bathed in a fairly mild sauce made with a barbecue butter that is much more addicting as a condiment for the bread. Updated as it is, the food is authentic: sous chef Terry Fortia moved to Hollywood after Hurricane Katrina destroyed his family's New Orleans home and his place of employment, the Southern Yacht Club. —Lonny Pugh