After several years furnishing pastas, breads and pastries to Celestino Drago's restaurants and institutions like Dodger Stadium, this large Culver City bakery has opened a retail counter to the general public. If only they can find the place.

There are no piped-in operettas or cuties lingering over coffee at this atmosphere-free bakery, which is hidden away in a Culver City alley that feels suspiciously like a film set. There aren't even any tables. More than three customers at a time would be a problem for the space, which holds a cooler overflowing with desserts, and a few shelves behind the counter that overflow with baguettes and bags of fresh pasta. But Dolce Forno accommodates the largest of call-in orders as well as individual drop-ins craving a croissant for breakfast, ciabatta for the afternoon and/or pumpkin ravioli to cook for dinner. And then there are the decadent sweets and desserts from talented pastry chef Gavin Wise. The chocolate espresso mousse cake is $26, the raspberry cheesecake is $26, the prune and brandy tart is $24. (The selections, of course, vary day-to-day. What's the point of a dessert selection without surprises?) —Lonny Pugh