The bistro-chic decor (an odd urban mix of earthy colors, Japanese design and '70s retro shapes) blankets a warm dining experience.

The look is unusual—and provides good small talk on first dates—but the atmosphere becomes irrelevant upon tasting Neal Fraser's cuisine. The delicate seared scallops and moist skate are just two of his sure-bet seafood dishes. Always on the menu are freshly shucked oysters served with three sauces (sherry vinegar mignonette, champagne granita, ponzu). Wild game is a specialty, and occasionally a game-tasting menu is offered for $75; the five courses might include duck, rabbit, Argentine wild hare and New Zealand elk. (Wine pairings are an additional $45.) Desserts utilize unexpected combinations like kumquats and almond paste. (Wednesdays have been declared Doughnut Shoppe Night, and feature haute riffs on the Homer Simpson favorite.) The wine list represents excellent value, but restaurant heavies should consult the separate cellar list, full of more rare finds. —Lesley Balla