Steven Arroyo's former Los Feliz steakhouse has blossomed into another unpretentious tapas spot.

The Hillmont had its fans, but owner Steven Arroyo felt it was time for a change. His other Cobras & Matadors (located on Beverly Boulevard, near The Grove) is a surefire hotspot, and his other tapas restaurant, Cobra Lily, is equally jam-packed any night of the week, so he's definitely onto something. Customers sit at intimate tables where Eastside-aloof servers bring a flurry of small plates and wine; watch out for those short, hard metal chairs—grab a booth seat instead. The vibe is convivial and laid-back while friends share noshes like potato omelets, dry-cured pork loin with aged goat cheese, and grilled bread topped with white anchovies, tangy picillo peppers and aioli. Cheese plates come with three, six or eight cheeses, overflowing with fresh grapes and other seasonal fruits. The wine list is strictly Spanish, and nothing is priced over $10 a glass. —Lesley Balla