Long a neighborhood favorite, this Westside Italian bistro recently got a bright renovation that matches chef Salvatore Marino's modern Italian cuisine.

Completely reconfigured in 2005, Il Grano gleams with a contemporary sheen, from the new white marble-topped bar at the entrance to the chic imported chandeliers overhead. Regulars were initially flabbergasted by the new look; first-timers thought they'd discovered a stylish new bistro. Marino, whose family has been serving Italian food to LA since the '50s, says a trip to Il Grano is like experiencing the way Italy eats now—we, lacking the expense account to fact-check this claim, believe him. Like most great chefs, Marino is inspired by what's in season and, most importantly, from what he finds at the Downtown fish markets he visits every morning. The crudo plate is a mainstay and a must-have—a selection of that day's fish served raw, like the finest sashimi, spiced only with a light olive oil or pinch of fresh herb. Toothsome pastas, like the half moon-shaped ravioli stuffed with buffalo mozzarella or pappardelle with lamb ragu, are also standouts. Manager Stefano Ongaro brings a wealth of experience from his years at Valentino, which proves most useful when it's time to navigate the wine menu. His pairings, whether by glass or bottle, are right on the mark.