A diminutive space for the big talent and devoted following of chef Gino Angelini, this elegant study in blond wood and clean lines manages to nail the elusive vibe of being both accessible and select.

Smartly attired regulars are greeted like family, others with genuine enthusiasm. The former chef of Rex, il Ristorante and Vincenti restaurants shows respect for lunch with a serious selection of pizzas, pastas like Nonna Elvira's green lasagna, and an oven-cooked half-chicken with potatoes. Antipasti lead the show at night: start simply with a green salad or maybe cannellini beans with red onions and sausage. An ending of Red Cow Parmigiano with pears and balsamic vinegar never seemed so right. —Lesley Balla