Before Caroline Styne and chef Suzanne Goin opened the very hot A.O.C., this restaurant was where the It crowd went for contemporary Cal-Med cuisine and high style. Actually, that still holds true today.

On starry nights, we seek out the high-walled patio in back; still, whether or not there's a chill in the air,the room—with two leather sofas sitting in front of a fireplace—is as welcoming as a ski lodge. And the fare is as simple and sleek as the setting. Goin honed her aesthetic at Campanile; her menu features farmer's market-fresh ingredients and frequently changes according to the season. Some items we've seen include arugula and frisee with apples, pomegranate and pepitas; lemon-marinated artichokes, lima puree and burrata; Hawaiian snapper with carrots, black olives and crumbled feta; and braised veal cheeks with saffron rice, marrow and gremolata. Drinks and lighter fare can be enjoyed at the bar, and on Sunday nights, the restaurant features a fantastic three-course prix-fixe meal for a mere $45. Fancy and cheap: our two favorite things!