After changing hands several times since opening in 1948, this classic has returned to its Rat Pack roots thanks to Warner Ebbink, who also owns the hipster-friendly 101 Coffee Shop.

Ebbink wanted to take Dominick's back to its original vibe, when Sinatra and company would conspire in clubby booths and celebs were as common a sight as icy martinis. The extensive renovation in 2004 rid the place of its ship(wreck) theme and restored dark-wood accents, white-tiled floors and red booths. A walled garden patio is shaded by three 30-year-old olive trees, surrounded by fresh herbs, and warmed, when necessary, by two romantic fireplaces; the chatty din of sexy, laid-back diners blends right in with the swank soundtrack. Some favorites include a grilled artichoke so good it doesn't even need a dipping sauce, halibut with charred leeks and tomatoes, and the delectable ricotta fritters with chocolate-hazelnut sauce. Sunday-night family-style dinners are a budget-friendly hit: Three courses (appetizer, entree and dessert) are just $15, and bottles of the house-label wine, Dago Red, are also on special.