An intimate, slightly funky eatery with lots of rustic charm, the Canteen appeals to locals, industry operatives and an occasional celeb.

California Canteen resembles a cozy Parisian cafe, with booths set beneath oversized vintage bullfighting posters, ornate mirrors, a quaint bar scene and clocks curiously stopped at 7:50. The menu is dominated by traditional French, Spanish and Italian fare, and it's well-priced and well-prepared. For starters, there is French onion soup served in a crock or a modified Nicoise salad with fresh ahi tuna, escargots and calamari; entrees include rib-eye au poivre, salmon filet with a delicate dill-butter sauce, and pork loin medallions with apple-brandy sauce. Other dishes are more whimsical, like the hot dog "Parisian," which is topped with brie and served in a baguette. There is also a special menu for Hollywood Bowl picnic boxes, cleverly named after composers. Utensils, napkins, olive oil, bread and glasses are supplied. —Lesley Balla