With a strict manifesto regarding organic ingredients and a thick, atmospheric darkness cloaking evening diners, this eatery is unique even by Los Feliz standards. Every decor element looks lifted from the Left Bank.

Our most vivid memories of Figaro Bistrot (we're told the "t" is an homage to the traditional spelling of the word) involve the details. Our very French waiter breezed through the specials listed in French on the small chalkboard in his hands. The lively music swirled around us, somehow not calling attention to itself but subtly blanketing the conversation of the organic-wine-soaked party of four next to us. And the food: The manifesto behind the ingredients makes Whole Foods look like McDonald's. The poultry used was raised on open pastures and fed organic grass and grain. Beef comes from grass-fed-to-finish cattle. All fruits and vegetables were picked from the farm no more than four days before they ended up on the plate. And all fish is line-caught the same day it arrives in the kitchen. The menu changes seasonally, but we've recently enjoyed pork tenderloin, salmon on a bed of leeks, and a warm goat cheese salad with bruschetta and greens. Next door is a boulangerie peddling warm loaves of yeast-free, dairy-free, oil-free bread and, past that, a small room that's rentable for private events.