Tucked away on Sunset Junction is a romantic French bistro where the pommes frites are crisp, the wine list is impressive and the desserts are rich.

With its candlelit courtyard and traditional menu, Cafe Stella is tailor-made for an amorous soiree or a hush-hush tryst. Unlike many a transliterated French restaurant, Stella is unpretentious and relaxed. The crowd is a mix of expats, bespectacled Silver Lakers and marrieds looking to rekindle over Cabernet. Though it might not be recommended, we arrived on a Saturday night sans reservation and were quickly seated. Typically French starters like escargots and plates of charcuterie and cheese are tempting ways to warm up for the main course. Entree-wise, the menu is separated into meats and fish. The steak au poivre is a favorite among regulars, but those on the hunt for something different should consider the duck. The meat arrived a nice shade of pink, and was tender and flavorful; our dining companion raved about the ahi tuna on expertly seasoned polenta. (A word of caution: In fine French form, most dishes do run heavy on the butter.) Diners who aren't lured to Pazzo Gelato across the street should try the pot de créme au chocolate for dessert. —Elisa Jacobs