Josiah Citrin's Melisse is a favorite for foodie excursions, intimate celebrations and family feasts. Warm taupes, earthy greens and toasty orange accents create an inviting space with touches that are very elegant (French cutlery) but not stuffy (the server brought a stool for our purse).

Citrin heads to the local farmers market at least twice a week to find fresh inspiration for his ever-changing menu. Depending on the month, you might find silky-sweet white corn coup with jumbo lump crab or a prime beef strip loin with braised short ribs and a crisp, caramelized shallot tart. Signature dishes include the poached egg served in its shell, topped with lemon-chive crme fraiche and American osetra caviar (served with tiny abelone spoons), and dry-aged cote de boeuf served tableside. Desserts are seasonal (sticky toffee pudding, brown-butter apricot tart) but there are always beautiful petits fours offered at the end of the meal. With all there is to choose from, the best way to experience Melisse is to get one of the tasting menus, especially when time and money are no object: Whether you choose your own four-course meal ($87) or let the chef choose for you ($145), the handsome sommelier will help pick wines to match. —Lesley Balla