In LA, star-driven, special effects-heavy productions are expected. Wolfgang Puck has just that at Spago Beverly Hills.

With executive chef Lee Hefter, Puck plays the starring role in a multimillion dollar set (artistically designed by Barbara Lazaroff) that welcomes many guest stars, special appearances and, of course, extras. No wonder it's the preferred ground for paparazzi. You don't have to be "someone" to enjoy Spago, but you'll get the best table (on the patio, in the back right corner, right under the tree), a flurry of instant underlings (how many amuse bouche can you eat before your appetizer?) and expert service from the entire staff. Spago's menu changes daily; favorites we've sampled include house-smoked salmon on lemon-herb blinis, Hong Kong-style steamed salmon, roasted rack and loin of Sonoma lamb, and Korubuta pork osso bucco with saffron risotto. Then there are the nostalgic dishes from Wolfgang's childhood, like weinerschnitzel or spicy beef goulash with sauteed spaetzle, and Sherry Yard's award-winning desserts. The tasting menu, with its combination of signature dishes and daily specials, is the royal way to experience this restaurant, but it takes a good three hours to work through all 10 courses. —Lesley Balla