The candlelit tables on the patio at dusk, looking out over the lush grounds, feel miles away from the hubbub of the city. The patrons may be more, ahem, reserved than at your typical LA-scene restaurant, but where's the downside in that?

Chef Craig Strong features the kind of food to be expected at a Ritz—filet mignon, crab cakes, salmon—but his unique spin and use of fresh, local ingredients makes this a destination populated by loyal locals as much as successful hotel guests in town on business. Since he changes the menu often, each dinner can easily feel like the first. We've sampled seared diver scallops with a meltingly good piece of foie gras, Brussels sprout leaves and artichoke puree. Olive oil-poached halibut was served with artichoke, Spanish chorizo, romesco sauce and hot potato "foam"; wild king salmon came with kale puree and vanilla bean "froth." Strong, who is also the pastry chef (and you thought Martha was overzealous!), prepares desserts as interesting as the entrees. The pineapple cannelloni with coconut sorbet, chocolate cake with bing cherries and basil ice cream, and fresh-made beignets each finished memorable meals. —Lesley Balla