Piero Selvaggio must be a magician. In a city where success is as ephemeral as a cactus flower, his Valentino holds firm on Pico Boulevard.

With exquisite floral arrangements, a sophisticated room and professional service, this is still one of the best special-occasion restaurants in LA. Selvaggio, the owner, recently brought in innovative young talent (executive chef Ezio Gamba and chef de cuisine Giacomo Pettinari) to breathe new life into the menu. Still showcased are ingredients flown in from Italy, like white truffles from Piedmont and fish from the Adriatic sea, plus locally grown meats from Napa or small East Coast farms. But the menu runs the gamut from modern Italian seafood dishes to more traditional homemade pastas. The chefs happily prepare an "extravaganza menu" for adventurous diners who want a series of small plates served much the same way it would be in Italy. The wine list is unbelievable, but the sommelier will eagerly steer you to just the right bottle.