We want fresh ground organic Angus beef, Tillamook cheddar cheese and slabs of smoky bacon. Or maybe a turkey burger with dried cranberries and ginger-soy glaze?

Those are just a few of the options you'll find at The Counter, a neighborhood joint that's a modern take on the classic soda fountain, with sleek lines and a soundtrack stocked with classic rock and '80s faves. The menu is short and simple, from oddly addictive fried dill pickle chips to burgers that would make Dagwood proud. Those who prefer to keep it simple stick with an "old-school" burger (cheese, pickles and onion), but it's more fun to build a customized model from a choice of meats (and non-meats) and more than 40 toppings that range from herb goat cheese to roasted-corn-and-black-bean salsa. You can even choose the size of the patty, raging from one-third to a full pound. Just remember: The bigger the burger, the bigger the mess. —Lesley Balla