This Japanese-inspired restaurant—slick and sultry, lined with bamboo, accented by flickering candles and fireplaces—is most notable for its crowd, perpetually swarming with Ashtons and Demis.

Luckily, the food pleases as much as the scene bustles. Glistening, clean-tasting sushi is the centerpiece, but the tapas-like small dishes are fun for tasting and sharing (while sipping premium sake, of course). Some highlights include tuna tartare with avocado on crispy wontons, spicy seared albacore with crispy red onions, and yellowtail carpaccio with grapeseed oil and ponzu wasabi tobiko. On the entree menu, grilled tiger prawns, Chilean sea bass and soft shell crab are given a creative Asian treatment. Landlubbers can opt for meat dishes that are unusual but never veer into the weird. For many a famous diner, a cocktail lubricates the inevitable clash with the paparazzi staked outside. —Lesley Balla