Mastro's warmly embraces classic steakhouse traditions and the moneyed clients who practice them.

Dark mahogany walls seem to further dim lights so that seeing across the room is nearly impossible; somewhere a pianist croons Frank and Dino while a tailor-dressed staff attends to families, couples and Industry peeps with aplomb. Two lounges, one upstairs and one down, are perfect for those who don't need a slab of beef to go with their martini. The menu is full of la carte choices, all grilled or broiled to perfection, like New York strip, porterhouse, prime rib and a smattering of fish and fowl. Sides include rich and cheesy au gratin potatoes, creamed corn and spinach, and steamed asparagas, enough for two to share (and share again the next day). Don't scoff at the idea of seafood here; a recent special of plump chilled stone crab claws was fantastic. —Lesley Balla