When dining at the Grove gets to be, well, mallish, there are plenty of interesting other options around the neighborhood. New among the delis, jewelry stores and bakeries is Chameau, the popular Eastside French-Moroccan spot that owner Kelly Klemovich and chef Adel Chagar took west.

In Silver Lake, Klemovich was turning people away when her tiny restaruant filled up--which was all the time. The funky new Fairfax space easily accomodates her longtime fans and the neighborhood folks who happily leave the mall eats to the tourists. The menu is a seasonal array of inspired dishes like grilled merguez sausage with chickpea puree and goat cheese; whole loup de mer with fennel potato tagine and charmoula; and roasted lamb shank with mint couscous and spiced quinces. The restaurant brought Eastside prices to the nabe, too, which is easy to swallow for even the most bargain-oriented mallrat.