Gringos be warned: There's not a burrito in sight at this fabulous, if unspectacular-looking, mini-mall eatery.

For breakfast, we recommend the hearty and well-seasoned dishes higaditos (shredded chicken with eggs and tomatoes). The mole negro is divine: The smooth, intense sauce is made with more than 30 herbs, spices and chile seeds and served over tender white-meat chicken. Red, yellow and green mole are also served—but once you've had the black version, it's hard to even bother sampling anything else.