Like Joan Rivers and our fondness for similes, some favorites never seem to die.

Serving celebs, those who want to be near them, those who want to be them, and those who want to make 10 percent of their salary since 1973, Mr. Chow's Beverly Hills outpost is a stark and simple jewel. (Other Mr. Chows can be found in Miami, Las Vegas, London and twice in New York.) The aforementioned "those who want to be near them" crowd can't do much better than this; the tables are so close together that the phrase "rubbing elbows with" can be taken quite literally. And, oh yes, there's the food. Right. Well, like Koi and The Ivy, any discussion of the food seems almost irrelevant—legend status for all three seems irrevocable by now—which isn't to say it doesn't come recommended. Try the green prawns with spinach dressing, peppers and cashews. —Lonny Pugh