Fledgling Sunset Strip den Hadaka Sushi gives adult names to the rolls with the hope it will translate to a good time for diners. Care for a "threesome"? Anyone?

If any unwitting diner were to stumble down the steps into Hadaka, the sunken chalet-like building that used to be a waffle house, he or she would quickly realize what was in store upon entering the lounge: Bright red alphabet-letter tables are clustered together to spell S-E-X. Like a teenager going straight for the bra hook, Hadaka wastes no time with foreplay (though "foreplay" is a category on the menu). The waitresses are tucked into a sort of Shakespearean hussy uniform complete with hat, corset, fishnets and puffy culottes. (Our sweet server confessed she'd rolled hers at the waist to make them more flattering.) Their job is to keep a straight face while customers order sushi, steak or salmon with dirty names. Care for a "glory hole" roll? A "threesome"? "Sixty-nine"? Some names seem to come from nowhere, though "a woody" translates as cedar-plank salmon, and "pink triangle"—well, we won't go there. (Focusing on the food can be difficult, as we're not really inclined to associate, say, "hot n' itchy" with anything we're putting in our mouths.) Sakes are stuck with the name on the label, but soju martinis come as "quickies," "call girls" or "friends with benefits." If anybody knows what GFE stands for, let us know. Shrug. —Lonny Pugh