As Melrose Avenue continues its transformation from thrift-store heaven for high-school kids to evening destination for serious diners, chef Eric Greenspan throws his chef's hat in.

In the former home of Cafe Luna (kind of—there was another restaurant after that one, and the patio out back isn't in the same space), The Foundry on Melrose goes the classy route with colors of whites and butter. There are about 90 seats or so between the dining area and the charming, walled-in back patio. (We don't love the wicker chairs, but the lounge-friendly gray couches by the fireplace are inviting.) Chef Eric Greenspan has served as the executive chef at Patina and opened the now-shuttered Meson G, so this restaurant's debut was eagerly awaited by those who take their food fairly seriously. The menu is extremely short, which usually means a few things done extremely well—though based upon our first visit we could better envision spending this kind of money over at All' Angelo instead. That's not to say, though, that there's nothing enjoyable on the menu. The gnocchi and calamari-avocado salad were satisfying and nicely plated starters; the short ribs arrive with garlic puree, frisee, and a hash made of onion, and the halibut was complemented by polenta and orange confit. (The menu changes often, but the website seems to keep fairly current.) For dessert, the berry mousse, with caramelized muffins and mascarpone ice cream, is tasty and comes in a coolly off-kilter sphere. We look forward to another visit when the restaurant settles in. It could really work. —Lonny Pugh