Before sunset, the ocean surges just outside. Afterward, attention is focused on companionship and cuisine at this bright, charming restaurant and sushi bar inside Hotel Casa Del Mar.

By the windows, the tables are low; the central sushi counter is a focal point that still manages to blend in. At the back, a row of square tables for two at the back are raised high enough, each with its own overhead lamp, to see over it all. Translation: There's a nice view from anywhere inside the fairly small space, filled with clean whites, crisp linens and stemless glassware (though stemmed is available). On the menu is a mixture of sushi, sashimi, crudo and heavier entrees from sand and sea. After a surprisingly simple chef's sampler of sushi (we got an unspectacular mix of usual suspects like bluefin and yellowtail), we loved the Asian pear salad (with shaved serrano ham and almonds), and entrees like parmesan risotto and Alaskan halibut. Service was extremely pleasant and unobtrusive; unlike a recent visit to another new restaurant, at which the server quite literally read us the entire menu, our Catch waitress made just a few recommendations that were all the more welcome when they turned out to be right. —Lonny Pugh