Securing a table at Los Angeles' Osteria Mozza, the new fine-dining sibling of the more casual Pizzeria Mozza next door, is one of the most difficult tickets in town. It carries a 30-day wait.

But it's well worth it for the wonderful Italian fare designed by talented restaurateurs and chefs Nancy Silverton, Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich.

The sleek, contemporary dining space with glitzy dark brown and blue decor and black floors, a handsome bar with high-top marble stands (for sipping and nibbling) and a gleaming, fashionable white marble-topped mozzarella bar, features main dining room and window perimeter seating for 150 guests, with a vast wine rack display.

When we entered on a recent visit, the sound was almost deafening, but we quickly adjusted to the hip, energetic and happening atmosphere.

For starters, there's a fabulous array of antipasti or mozzarella bar selections. Don't miss the red endive, fennel and parmigiano ($12), an impressive layered salad presentation complemented with anchovy date dressing, a perfect blend of flavors.

Burrata from Basilicata ($20) surrounded with braised leeks was another hit, especially for burrata fans. Although it lacked color (simply light green leeks and white cheese) and was very rich, it tasted divine. The large portion was enough for two or three to share. Other tempting mozzarella bar choices - caprese with bufala bocconcini, heirloom tomatoes and basil; scamorza panino; bufala mozzarella with pesto, tapenade and caperberry relish.

We sampled two homemade pastas from the 10 selections - among them Orecchiette With Sausage & Swiss Chard ($18) and Spaghetti With Clams, Pancetta & Spicy Fresno Chile Pesto ($19). Both were hot and spicy and served al dente, but were a little oilier than we would have preferred. Also, the heavy-handed amount of crisp crumbled sausage overwhelmed the orechiette and chard.

The entrees fared much better. Grilled Beef Tagliata ($25), a melt-in-your mouth hanger steak served sliced with rucola and Parmigiano with aged aceto balsamico, was a winner - and had beautiful plate appeal. Another favorite was the Grilled Lamb Chops ($29). A Grilled Whole Orata ($29), a delicate white Italian fish wrapped in a fig leaf with olio nuovo, then split and each half topped with basil leaves and olive oil, was interesting and delicious, even with a fish head as part of the plate presentation.

For chocolate fans, be sure to finish with the decadent, rich Cioccolato ($12), a bittersweet chocolate cake (more like a dense wedge of chocolate ganache). The Bombolini ($12) (similar to deep-fried doughnut holes filled with lemon mascarpone and dusted with sugar) with fruit sorbetto was terrific, too.

Although the waiter was well versed in the menu selections along with their ingredients, we found the wait between courses exceedingly slow.

 At its best: Los Angeles' hottest and hippest new, sleek Italian restaurant that's shaking up the dining scene.

Could be better: Faster pace of the meal; a lighter touch with the oil and butter in some dishes.

Natalie Haughton (818) 713-3692

natalie.haughton@dailynews.com