BY NATALIE HAUGHTON

>FOOD EDITOR

Pink Taco serves Mexican fare with plenty of attitude - and prices that won't break the bank. Think of it as a Hard Rock Cafe for the next generation.

Owner Harry Morton - the son of Hard Rock founder Peter Morton - seems to know a thing or two about how to make a spot hot. On a recent Sunday night the place was buzzing, the dining room was full, and there was a half-hour wait (reservations are only taken for parties of six or more) for a dinner table at the 8:30 hour.

Mexican fare with a twist as well as colorful and attractive presentation is what this funky, hip, casual, free-standing restaurant at the Westfield Century City shopping center is all about. A bowl of Holly Guacamole ($8.95) was fresh and appealing, with chunks of avocado throughout the coarsely mashed-up mixture sporting finely chopped onions, Serrano chiles, a hint of tomatoes and lime juice.

Although the menu mentioned an accompaniment of homemade tortillas, they never showed. We didn't miss them though, as there was a bucket of tortilla chips that came to the table initially with tasty green and red sauces. The generous bowl of guacamole, ideal for sharing, was the real deal, thick and delicious (even though someone in the kitchen was a little heavy-handed with the salt) - with no fillers.

Next up were the Carne Asada Skewers ($8.95), an appetizer made with skirt steak and a tamarind chipotle glaze, the four wooden skewers festively presented upright in a tomato half surrounded by a few dressed baby lettuce leaves and a flavorless jicama slaw. The meat pieces, which appeared to be grilled until very crisp, were tender with good flavor from the glaze, but were a little too fatty.

There were lots of other tempting-sounding appetizer choices - Sweet Corn Tamales, Chili Con Queso, Chicken Skewers and Beer Battered Shrimp among them - along with salads such as Mexican Turkey Chopped and Vegetable Tostada.

The Sabana de Pollo (the restaurant's most popular entrée, we were told, at $13.95) featured a chicken breast pounded almost paper-thin, pan seared and topped with melted cheese, beans, grilled onions, whole serrano chiles and a chimichurri sauce. It looked and tasted good and was served with a descent Mexican rice in a bowl alongside.

Based on the menu description, we were expecting a rolled chicken breast filled with cheese and beans and served with potato flautas and grilled asparagus. The waiter didn't mention the presentation change, which came as surprise when the dish was delivered to the table.

The Cabo Enchiladas ($14.95) were a hit - two large tortillas rolled up with whole shrimp and shredded cheese inside and topped with a good amount of an intriguing (and addictive), creamy chipotle chile sauce that had smoky overtones with a slight hint of sweetness. Sides of Mexican rice and beans (with lots of whole bean pieces) arrived in separate bowls.

The plates here are colorfully presented with flair and pizazz and are definitely a step above standard Mexican chain fare - a pleasant surprise.We wanted to sample the Pink Tacos, the restaurant's namesake dish made with homemade pink (really?) corn tortillas, but they are only available as an entree.

For the finale, we opted for Fried Ice Cream ($6.95), enough to share. It appears that flattened rounds of vanilla ice cream had been coated with a coconut batter (or a batter that was dipped in coconut), then deep-fried until golden and frozen. Two frozen rounds were stacked with cinnamon chocolate tortilla rounds in between and on top, then gilded with a few drizzles of cajeta sauce and a fresh berry. The ice cream rounds, although tasty and intriguing, were slightly disappointing, as we anticipated they would be served hot or at least warm (from the deep fryer with the ice cream just starting to melt). The attractive creation begged for more sauce - and, in particular, hot fudge to jazz it up. Service was a little erratic, most likely because the waiter was handling several tables. In addition, the pace of the meal could have been better - there were long waits for the appetizers, for instance.

At its best: A refreshing, welcome cut above typical chain Mexican fare. And the place looks great, too.

Could be better: Service was spotty in the crowded dining room, and courses should be timed better. The menu descriptions should be updated to match the food served.

Natalie Haughton, (818) 713-3692

natalie.haughton@dailynews.com

PINK TACO

>Rating:
>Details: Westfield Century City, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., (second floor) Los Angeles. Open continuously for lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday 11:30 a.m. to midnight; Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. (310) 789-1000. www.pinktaco.com.
>Cost: Appetizers $7.95 to $13.95, salads $9.95 to $12.95, platos fuertes $13.95 to $19.95, tacos $11.95 to $13.95, desserts $6.95.
>Noteworthy: Generous portions. Full bar with many margaritas (pomegranate, peach, etc.) and various cocktails (mojitos, martinis, cosmos) and red and white wine sangrias. Three hours free parking in mall parking lot. Reservations accepted for parties of six or more.
>Recommended items: Holy Guacamole, Cabo Enchiladas, Sabana de Pollo, Fried Ice Cream.