Nonna, grandmother in Italian, is a fitting name for a newly opened restaurant on Sunset Boulevard that offers traditional Italian flavors in today's sophisticated dress. But this is definitely not grandma's house.

The sleek, modern establishment features decor accented with woods, glass and a soothing waterfall. Presentations on stark white dishes contrast with the colorful creations and impress for the most part, despite some misses among the several hits.

To start, a Pappa al Pomodoro soup ($9.50) looked and tasted wonderful with rich tomato and basil flavor. A thin-crust Margherita Pizza ($14) with mozzarella cheese from the gas-burning pizza oven was passable but a tad heavy on the salt. The Burrata Pizza ($16) sounds better.

Carciofini ($11.50), a salad described as thinly sliced small artichokes, red onion, parsley and lemon vinaigrette - was fabulous with tender slivers of fresh artichokes. Ringed with chopped tomatoes, it's a don't-miss menu star.

The Misticanza di Campo ($10), a salad with wild baby lettuces, heirloom tomatoes (the factor that convinced us to order it) and balsamic dressing doesn't live up to expectations - it was mundane, at best. The only heirloom tomatoes here were red, chopped and scattered around the outside edge of the plate. We had visions of a few different kinds and colors of heirlooms, served sliced.

Antipasto Misto Della Nonna ($21), an antipasto platter large enough for two to share, was a winner. Laden with red and yellow pepper strips, prosciutto slices, Italian black olives, eggplant pieces, a crostini with goat cheese and pine nuts and another topped with bruschetta, this beauty was one of the highlights of the meal.

Spigola ($27), one of the nightly specials, a Mediterranean line-caught white sea bass, was another. Tender, flaky and grilled perfectly, the fish arrived at the table ready to be deboned by a server to a waiting plate with fresh vegetables - steamed baby carrots, green beans - and a few potato wedges. A lovely presentation - and a terrific choice.

Spaghetti all'aragosta ($25), spaghetti with 1/2 pound of Maine lobster, lacked pizazz and failed to deliver. The spaghetti was cooked al dente but came tossed lightly with a flavorless tomato sauce and a skimpy portion of small lobster pieces that were tough and rubbery. A big disappointment. Lobster deserves better.

For dessert, a lemon custard pie with pine nuts and almonds had excellent flavor. Even non-lemon-lovers were sold. Two generous scoops of chocolate gianduja gelato were creamy and delicious. Neither dessert was made on the premises - and both were pricey at $11 each.

The restaurant aims to please but has a few kinks to iron out - one of them being the kitchen needing to turn out orders in a more timely fashion. Although there was a considerable wait between the appetizers/salads and entrees, the waiter did cruise by (ironically just a minute or two before the entrees arrived) to advise us that the kitchen was backed up.

Nonna is the brainchild and first restaurant of Scott Zacky, of the Zacky Farms family (think chicken). Oscar Rios, a 10-year veteran of the Spago wait staff, is the general manager; he's congenial, welcoming, friendly and strives for excellence. Even if the meal wasn't perfectly orchestrated, the staff seems to care.

On a return visit we might stick to the salads, appetizer platter and pizzas for a lighter dining experience, as the menu is currently in a state of flux (the first chef is already gone).

A long bar countertop with no seats is the only place to stand and wait when your table isn't ready, which can be a bit awkward. Dining al fresco on a sidewalk area, cordoned off just outside the restaurant's glass windows, is a possibility - especially on a beautiful day - if the noise from cars whizzing by doesn't bother you.

 At its best: A laid-back place to enjoy Italian fare where you can actually hear the conversation at your table. Staff aims to please.

Could be better: Timing of the meal; some of the menu selections need tweaking.

NONNA

>Details: 9255 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Friday 11 a.m. to midnight; dinner Saturday and Sunday 6 p.m. to midnight. (310) 270-4455 .

>Cost: Appetizers, soups and salads $9.50 to $16, pastas $18 to $28, pizzas $14 to $16, main courses $19.50 to $42 (all served with farmers' market vegetables), specials $14 to $140 (whole turbot for four), desserts $11.

>Noteworthy: Valet parking, outdoor sidewalk dining patio, reservations advised. Full bar. Wines available by the glass and bottle. Corkage: For every bottle of wine you purchase at the restaurant, corkage is complimentary for one outside bottle. Otherwise, corkage is $25 per bottle.

 Natalie Haughton, (818) 713-3692

natalie.haughton@dailynews.com