BY ERIC ROSEN >LA.COM

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In his bid to implant New York culinary traditions in LA, George Abou-Daoud has opened up another little eatery (the first of four!) on Sunset that bears a striking resemblance to its nearby forebear, Bowery.

A red neon sign beckons you like a burlesque beacon to this faux converted storefront of glazed red bricks, from which you can play voyeur to a shady spot of Sunset Blvd. through the cast-iron windows.

After you make your selection of wines by the glass or on-tap beers from the extensive menu scrawled on the mirrored wall, enjoy it in one of the big leather booths line the main dining room, or head straight to the cozy little bar tucked into the back, past beautiful exposed brick arches.

Appetizers include Italian comfort foods like calamari, beef carpaccio, and the sumptuous chicken liver crostini with mouthwatering pieces of pancetta and syrupy caramelized onions. The radish, chickpea and mixed greens salad drizzled with sherry vinegar and olive oil is an interesting starter; and the wilted spinach salad with pine nuts, ricotta, salata and pancetta is tangy and satisfying.

If you’re hungry for your college days, try the chicken parmesan sandwich or one of the eleven pizza choices. The signature sweet potato and goat cheese ravioli in a butter sage sauce, and the orechiette with spicy-sweet Italian sausage, peppers and cannellini beans, are also flavorful, if more refined.

For those avoiding carbs on their quest for a bikini-clad summer, the protein options include a piquant picatta chicken with a creamy potato croquette, a filet mignon with porcini butter, and a very…Italian…saltimbocca. The bambini should enjoy the spaghetti and meatballs, and desserts like homemade cannoli, lemon semifreddo, and ricotta zeppole (donuts) make it feel like you’re ending your night in Little Italy.