Cable king Tom Colicchio reigns supreme as head judge on "Top Chef," has been honored by the James Beard Foundation, and has conquered NYC. Regarding his CAA-adjacent Craft we say: It's about time.

First things first: A meal at Craft is not cheap. The service is extremely personable, but not yet flawless. (Give it time: Its aforementioned CAA-adjacence demands pristine poise and sturdy spines.) On then to the satisfying, inventive cuisine. The menu changes daily, but reflects what's fresh, with a mixture of seafoods, salads, fresh vegetables and hearty meats. One day may bring Japanese hamachi and apricot, Nova Scotia lobster and lemon confit, lamb tongue and Bing cherry, and a salad made of arugula and figs—and those are just the starters. Barbary duck comes with a hint of lavender; Diver scallops employ vermouth to striking effect. Everything is meant to be a la carte, which means the plates add up quickly. Yes, a side of asparagus could set you back $11, but a reservation at Craft basically ensures a memorable evening, with or without a sighting of suits and the A-listers paying them ten percent. —Lonny Pugh