The first thing that strikes you when you walk into Kumo is the uncomplicated (some might say stark) white-on-white color scheme—and why not, since Kumo means “cloud” in Japanese.

But be thankful for the break it gives your senses, because you’ll need all the concentration you can muster to do justice to the complex, well-matched flavors that await you on Kumo’s menu. And the white is a calming backdrop to all the beautiful people drawn here by the allure of Mike Ovitz’s ownership.

There is far more to experience at Kumo than mere people-watching, of course.

As you peruse the menu, try one of the signature cocktails -- like the refreshing Ponce de Leon made with apple cider vinegar and elderflower liqueur, or maybe the spicy Kumokaze, which combines chili pepper and acacia honey. Now, stay sober enough to sample the impressive sake menu, with Kumo’s own sake label requiring a brandy snifter to capture the bouquet and lend solemnity to the imbibing.

As this is written, the restaurant is in the process of working out a few changes to the menu, and is offering a selection of fresh new spring choices such as the tender but firm Hokkaido scallops in California strawberry sauce.

Even jaded sushi enthusiasts will find something new to enjoy in the ankimo, monkfish liver pate, with its notes of ocean spray, creamy nuttiness and tangy aftertaste accompanied by a tart ponzu jelly. Signature dishes include the Pink Panther roll, which is lobster dynamite, avocado, seared toro and a piece of eel all wrapped up like a present in pink soy paper.

So many different cuts of fish at once can become overwhelming, but moderate portion sizes and manageable sushi cuts provide some relief, and you can also order from the traditional sashimi menu. One of the best dishes is the Hama Hama oysters wrapped in lettuce and served in a smoky mushroom broth, distilling the best characteristics of Japanese cuisine: simplicity, elegance and clarity of flavor.

Let’s be honest: the menu is expensive and the portions can be small (even by L.A. standards) but the experience of dining at Kumo—the sparkling décor, the efficient and friendly service, the expert sushi preparation, and the distinct cocktail concoctions—are well worth it.

-- Eric Rosen