BY NATALIE HAUGHTON >DINING EDITOR

Panzanella, an upscale Italian restaurant in Sherman Oaks, has been owned by brothers Tanino and Giacomino Drago for the past five years. It didn't fare as well as anticipated on a recent visit; it has lost some of its panache - and was pricey to boot.

Perhaps expectations were too high (it received high marks when it opened) - or the place needs some gentle loving care. Selections sampled were a mixed bag - from good to mediocre to lackluster.

Bread and a decent black olive oil dipping sauce greeted us after we were seated. But a zucchini soup ($9), a special this evening, proved disappointing, dull green in color and lacking flavor and garnish. The only thing it had going for it was a nice texture - neither too thick nor too thin, but even that didn't make up for other problems. Reminiscent of canned soup, it was, in the words of one diner, "dreadful." With the bowl half full, it was whisked away without anyone inquiring if there was a problem. The server was all business, rather aloof and solo. He was busy juggling seven tables of diners (all that were in the restaurant) and wasn't as attentive as he might otherwise have been.

Burrata caprese ($14) fared better - and was one of the most successful choices. Featuring three generous pieces of excellent-quality fresh and creamy burrata cheese and wedges of heirloom tomatoes, it was centered with strips of roasted red pepper garnished with chopped basil, then drizzled with olive oil.

With most meat and fish entrees priced in the low-$30s range (chicken scaloppine was $26.50, veal shank $29.50), we opted for pasta.

Saucy cooked spaghetti wrapped in a slice of eggplant ($18) with tomato sauce and mozzarella around and on top, then baked until brown and crisp on the edges, came plated attractively, with two good-size rolls and a basil leaf for garnish. A nicely conceived, tasty and interesting creation.

Although the spaghetti al frutti di mare ($22) was recommended, this genre often falls short. In this instance, it looked appealing upon arrival at the table - the spaghetti cooked al dente in a light tomato sauce with shrimp, tiny scallops, calamari, mussels and clams - but most of the seafood, as experienced at other times and places, was tough instead of tender. Perhaps the seafood had been exposed to too much heat or was in the sauce too long. Although the sauce had slightly fishy overtones, it was spicy hot. A little freshly grated Parmesan would have been a welcome touch on either pasta, but none was offered.

Skip both the brown butter blackberry tart ($8) and cannoli ($8) for dessert - they were mediocre. Presentation was beautiful, but it wasn't matched by the taste of the sweets. The ricotta mixture, stuffed into two small, crisp cannoli shells, was bland and could have used a little sugar, more chocolate pieces or chips and pistachios (there were hardly any) and some orange zest to bump up the flavor. A small amount of some sort of orange puree was on the end of the cannoli, but it wasn't enough to make an overall flavor difference.

The blackberry tart, not open-face as expected, seemed more like an individual clafouti or kuchen with lots of dough. The vanilla gelato topping helped slightly.

The place seems a tad stuffy and dated - and could use a lift. Perhaps this Valley outpost is just a stepchild of the Italian owners, who have other restaurants on the Westside.

At its best: The dining room, with its cream-and-brown-colored décor, is pleasant but not overly special, even though tables are well-spaced, allowing diners to carry on a private conversation. Quality ingredients seem to be used in certain dishes - and plates, with a few exceptions, were attractively presented.

Could be better: More appealing contemporary menu. More lively seasoned creations. Desserts, while plated beautifully, don't taste great. More attentive, friendly wait staff. A little TLC could improve the overall dining experience here. A little pricey for the caliber of food.

Natalie Haughton, (818) 713-3692

natalie.haughton@dailynews.com

review>

PANZANELLA RISTORANTE

>Details: 14928 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. 5:30 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. (818) 784-4400, www.giacominodrago.com.

>Cost: Soups, antipasti, salads $8.50 to $15, pastas $12 to $25, meat, fish, chicken entrees $26.50 to $32, desserts $8.

>Noteworthy: Upscale Italian restaurant serving some traditional dishes with a contemporary twist. Splitting charge $2 to $3. Some reasonably priced wines available by the glass. Corkage fee $16 per bottle. Valet parking $5 (pull in alongside the restaurant; entrance is on the side).